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How-To: Applique

Monday, May 22, 2017
embroidery machine applique

How-To: Applique

This step by step guide will show you how to embroider an applique/tackle twill design on your Melco Embroidery machine.  This is a great way to personalize your garments while adding unique color, texture and patterns to a design.  Applique designs are specifically digitized for using fabric, rather than stitches, to fill in an area of a design. Applique patterns can be almost any shape. This same process can be used for tackle twill embroidery, except tackle twill usually does not include a satin stitch as the last stitch. Normally, a tackle twill effect is a zigzag stitch on top of a twill fabric.  

In the next steps we will talk about the process for sewing a design digitized for applique.

What you will need:

  • Applique / Tackle Twill Design
  • Applique / Tackle Twill Fabric
  • Temporary Spray Adhesive
  • Embroidery Thread
  • Embroidery Hoop
  • Applique scissors

If you are using EMT16 PLUS, make sure Melco OS is in Simplified Mode

  • Hoop your garment.
  • Load your applique design in the operating system.
  • Click on load design and choose your applique design. Please keep in mind, applique requires special digitizing techniques prior to the embroidery process.  
  • The design will load in the screen of the operating system.
  • Program the Color Sequence.
    1. Click on the color sequence button to set up the color sequence for the design.
    2. Choose a designated color in the design as your Applique Locator. The applique locator stitch sews first. The purpose of this stitch is to show where to place your applique fabric.
    3. The applique tack down stitch is sewn next. This stitch is used to hold down the fabric. In a tackle twill effect this would be the last stitch to embroider.
    4. The applique cover stitch is sewn after the tack down, this is usually a satin stitch and typically the same color as the tack down stitch.
    5. If the design was digitized with the placement stitch 1st, drag and drop the applique stop command between the Applique Locator needle and the Tack Down needle. The applique command will stop the machine and frame forward, allowing you to place your fabric on top of the locator stitch.
    6. Click the check-box to apply the changes.
  • Click Next, choose the correct hoop size to fit the design.
  • Choose the fabric type; this will raise the Acti-Feed™ to the correct feed for your garment.
  • Place the hooped garment on the machine.
  • Trace the design to make sure it fits in the hoop.
  • Press the start button and the machine will sew the Applique Locator stitch to show you where to place your applique fabric (this is assuming the applique embroiders as the first element).
  • After the Applique Locator stitch is sewn, move the machine frame out and pause at the programmed applique stop that we programmed in the color sequence.
  • Now you will need to take the pre-cut applique fabric and spray the back of it with some temporary spray adhesive.  This should be done in a box or on a sheet of paper away from your machine.
  • Place the pre-cut applique fabric on top of the sewn locator stitch.  You can just finger press it in place but make sure it lays straight with the stitch.
  • Press start. The next stitch to sew is the tack down stitch.  This will hold the applique in place. Watch to make sure your fabric stays in place while the tack down is sewing.
  • The next stitch to sew is the cover stitch. Once this is finished, the applique is complete.  NOTE: Most Tackle twill designs do not have this stitch.
  • The hoop can now be removed from the machine.


Click here to download a copy of this guide.